If you're looking to sharpen up your first-gen MR2, a set of aw11 coilovers is probably the single biggest upgrade you can make to change how the car actually feels on the road. Let's be real for a second—the AW11 is a legend, but most of these cars are pushing forty years old now. Unless the previous owner was a perfectionist, your current suspension is likely tired, bouncy, or just plain worn out. Swapping to coilovers isn't just about slamming the car to the ground; it's about modernizing a classic mid-engine chassis so it handles the way Toyota intended—only better.
Why the AW11 Needs Modern Help
The original suspension on the AW11 was actually pretty sophisticated for its time. Toyota worked with Lotus to get that nimble, "darty" feeling that makes these cars so much fun in the corners. But time is a cruel mistress. The rubber bushings perish, the oil in the struts leaks out, and you end up with a car that feels nervous rather than agile.
When you start shopping for aw11 coilovers, you're looking for more than just a lower ride height. You're looking for a way to manage the weight transfer of a mid-engine car. Because the engine is behind you, the AW11 has a specific set of needs. If the rear is too soft, you get squat and understeer; if it's too stiff without proper dampening, the back end might want to overtake the front when you lift off the throttle in a bend. Modern coilovers give you the valving technology that just didn't exist in the mid-80s.
The Weld-On vs. Bolt-On Debate
One thing you'll notice immediately when looking at aw11 coilovers is that it's not always a simple "unscrew the old, screw in the new" process. This is one of those quirks that makes the AW11 both a joy and a headache.
On the front of these cars, the strut tube is often integrated with the spindle/knuckle. This means many high-end coilover kits require you to cut your original strut housing and weld on a new threaded sleeve or a bottom mount. It's a bit intimidating if you aren't handy with a TIG welder, but it's the price we pay for that vintage Toyota engineering.
Luckily, some companies have started offering full replacement spindles or "bolt-on" solutions that avoid the welding. However, if you're going for a serious track setup, the weld-on options from places like Techno Toy Tuning (T3) are usually the gold standard. They're robust, and they allow for a lot of customization in terms of stroke length and spindle height.
Finding the Right Spring Rates
I see a lot of guys make the mistake of going way too stiff with their aw11 coilovers. They think "race car" means "rock hard," but on an AW11, that's a recipe for a bad time. The chassis on these cars isn't as stiff as a modern GR86 or a Porsche. If you put 10k springs on an old MR2, the suspension won't move, and the chassis will just flex instead.
For a street-driven car that sees the occasional canyon run, something in the 4k front and 6k rear (or 6k/8k) range is usually the sweet spot. It keeps the car planted without rattling your teeth out every time you hit a pebble. Remember, the goal is to keep the tires in contact with the pavement. If the car is skipping over bumps because the springs are too stiff, you're actually losing grip.
The Importance of Adjustability
The beauty of modern aw11 coilovers is the adjustability. Most kits these days come with 24 or 32 levels of dampening adjustment. Honestly, you probably won't use all 32, but having the range is great. You can click them to the softer side for your morning commute, and then stiffen them up by five or six clicks when you get to the track.
Then there's the ride height. Being able to independently adjust the height without messing with the spring preload is a game changer. It lets you get the "fitment" just right—getting rid of that 80s wheel gap—while still keeping the full travel of the shock. Nobody likes bottoming out on a bump stop halfway through a high-speed turn.
Camber Plates and Fine Tuning
Most decent aw11 coilovers will come with integrated camber plates for the front. Since the AW11 uses MacPherson struts up front, these plates are essential for dialing in your alignment. A little bit of negative camber goes a long way in helping the MR2 turn in. If you're staying on the street, maybe -1.5 degrees is plenty. If you're hitting autocross, you might want to push that a bit further. Just keep an eye on your tire wear!
Common Brands to Consider
When you're diving into the world of aw11 coilovers, a few names always pop up in the forums.
- BC Racing: These are the "bread and butter" for many. They're affordable, they're reliable, and they're a massive step up from stock. They offer a bolt-on solution that makes the install way less stressful for the average DIYer.
- Fortune Auto: If you have a bit more budget, the Fortune Auto 500 series is fantastic. They're hand-built and the valving is generally much more refined than the entry-level stuff.
- Techno Toy Tuning (T3): As I mentioned earlier, these are the purist's choice. They require welding, but the quality is top-notch, and they are designed specifically for old-school Toyotas.
- KW Suspension: For those who want the absolute best ride quality, KW is hard to beat, though they can be pricey and sometimes harder to find for the AW11 platform.
Supporting Mods for Your New Setup
You can't just throw a set of aw11 coilovers on a car and call it a day. Or well, you can, but you shouldn't. When you lower an AW11, the suspension geometry changes. Specifically, you might run into "bump steer" issues.
Installing a set of Roll Center Adjusters (RCAs) is highly recommended. These are small spacers that go between the strut and the steering knuckle. They help bring the control arms back to a more horizontal position, which keeps the steering predictable when the suspension compresses. If you skip these, you might find the car "darting" in directions you didn't intend when you hit a mid-corner bump.
Don't forget the bushings either. If you're putting brand new, stiff coilovers on a car with 200,000-mile-old rubber bushings, those bushings are going to be the weakest link. They'll perish even faster under the increased load. Swapping to polyurethane or fresh OEM rubber while you have the suspension apart is a "while you're in there" job that you'll thank yourself for later.
Final Thoughts on the Upgrade
At the end of the day, picking out aw11 coilovers is about deciding what you want the car to be. Do you want a slammed show car, a balanced canyon carver, or a dedicated track weapon? The AW11 is sensitive to changes, and it rewards high-quality parts.
It's one of the few cars where you can truly feel the difference of a single click on a dampening knob. Once you get the height dialed in, the alignment straight, and the dampening set to your liking, the AW11 transforms. It stops feeling like an old economy car with a mid-engine layout and starts feeling like the miniature supercar it was always meant to be. Just take your time with the install, don't cheap out on the alignment, and enjoy the ride. It's a lot of work, but the first time you take a sharp corner and the car just stays flat and grips, you'll know it was worth every penny.